Protesters rally before Confederations Cup opener. / Associated Press

It is about twenty to two. The sun of Mexico City is just beyond its apex, casting narrow shadows. The man in the blue shirt shuffles forward wearily, without real conviction.

From behind his right shoulder, a second figure appears; clad in brilliant gold. Casually, the gold shirt leans in towards the blue, pauses, then accelerates away. In the instep of his right foot is a football.

What happens next is hard to describe. There is something rhythmic about it, almost as if it is set to a magical beat heard only by the participants. The entire moment seems choreographed. But it can’t be, because the setting is a sporting arena, not a theatrical one.

Slow, slow, quick, quick, slow. The ball rolls from the first gold-shirted figure to a second. Then a third, and a fourth. Each uses only a single touch. The friends of the man in the blue shirt are gathering, as if wanting to intercede. But they are not really present.

Suddenly the fourth figure explodes into life. Quick, quick, quick, quick again – four of the men in blue are offered the ball. And as each one moves forward to claim it, the figure snatches it from them and jinks away.

For a moment the drum-beat returns. Slow, slow. But then the rhythm changes once more, building towards its dramatic finale. To the left of the stage another gold shirt begins to dance. Left, right, left, right. The blue shirts try to follow him, but they cannot hear the music.

The dancer springs forward and rolls the ball to his side. It stops at the feet of a dark, stocky figure. Something about him is different; special.

Then he does an amazing thing. He stands perfectly still. For a moment the magical beat stops. Time stops. It is like a conductor had raised his baton.

Without looking the conductor brings down his arm and caresses – doesn’t kick, but caresses – the ball to his right. A final, violent blinding flash of gold, then an eruption of sound, and the curtain falls.

Carlos Alberto’s goal – the fourth in Brazil’s 1970 World Cup final victory – is the greatest moment in football. The Goal, The Team, The Match, The Tournament. It is what we watch football for; what we watch sport for. You could even argue it’s what we live for.

Next year football was supposed to be coming home. A World Cup in Brazil, the cradle of the game. The problem is, Brazil doesn’t seem to want it.

On Sunday, police fired tear gas and rubber bullets at protesters who had gathered near to the Maracana stadium where Italy were playing Mexico in the Confederations Cup. It followed demonstrations which preceded Brazil’s opening match of the tournament against Japan. Last night, there was significant public disorder following further demonstrations in Sao Paulo Belo Horizonte and Brasilia.

As ever, those protesting seem to have a number of grievances. But the catalyst for the outpouring of anger does seem to be next year’s tournament. According to the BBC, those demonstrating on Sunday held up placards saying “We don’t need the World Cup” and “We need money for hospitals and education”.

Part of the problem appears to be that ordinary Brazilians fear they are going to priced out of – and excluded from – their own tournament. Another is the perceived corruption that has attended the awarding of contracts for the finals. But the primary reason for the unrest is a feeling that resources that could be spent on alleviating Brazil’s myriad ongoing social problems are being “squandered” on watching 22 men kick a ball around. Or twenty-one, if one of the teams includes Glen Johnson.

Football has changed a lot since that glorious afternoon in 1970, and not for the better. Growing commercialisation and corruption within the game’s governing body Fifa culminated in the grotesque decision to award the 2022 World Cup to Qatar, a nation with a dubious human rights record, where games are currently scheduled to kick off in 115-degree heat, and which Fifa itself characterised as representing a “high operational risk”.

The last World Cup in South Africa was dismal, with sponsors seemingly outnumbering fans, the football undermined by a new official ball that seemed to have been designed on Blackpool pleasure beach, and players who seemed exhausted or uninterested.

At least that was my impression. But I had wondered if I was just becoming old, too cynical and too worn down by exposure to Matthew Upson.

Now I’m starting to think it’s not just me. If even the Brazilians are complaining about the presence of the World Cup, then we should all be getting worried, and Sepp Blatter in particular.

Compared with the award to Qatar, Fifa’s ludicrous president probably assumed he was on home banker when he gave the tournament to Brazil. That illusion was rudely shattered at the Confederations Cup opening ceremony, when Blatter found himself roundly booed, along with Brazil’s president Dilma Rousseff. “Stars are always booed so I’m a star, you have to take it this way” was Blatter’s characteristically humble response.

There was a time when football was supposed to be the antidote to poverty. Or rather its placebo. But the demonstrations on the streets of Brazil show the extent to which football’s capacity for magic is waning.

In 1970 poor Brazilians danced in the favelas in celebration of their country’s victory. In advance of next year’s World Cup, and the Olympics that are to follow, the favelas are being bulldozed.

It’s tempting to decry this loss of sporting innocence. But in another sense, perhaps it is a good thing. It’s easy to point to a Pele, or a Zico or a Socrates, and hold them up as symbols of individual achievement, and Brazilian national pride. But did they really help shine the spotlight on the impoverished residents of Brazil’s shanty towns, or did they help to unwittingly hide them from view?

Carlos Alberto’s goal is a thing of beauty. But it never fed a hungry child, or built a new home, or delivered a newborn baby. Those Brazilians taking to the streets why so much money is being spent on a football tournament have a point.

It’s getting on for 50 years since the curtain fell in Mexico City. Perhaps we should leave it the people of Brazil to decide if and when it is raised again.

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A docking port in the Galapagos Islands. HBarrison / Flickr

Celebrity Cruises was forced to cancel two Galapagos Islands sailings when it was cited for violating an Ecuadorean law that the cruise line had no way of knowing existed because it had not yet been published.

The line’s 94-passenger Celebrity Xpedition was banned from the Galapagos National Park for…26 pounds of frozen lobster tails aboard.

But a new regulation requires that all lobster meat has to be consumed within five days of the end of the season. Celebrity said it was unaware of the law.

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At least 100 people were injured and more than 120 were arrested in the violent clashes, occurring exactly one year before the World Cup kicks off in Brazil’s financial capital.

The marchers were protesting an increase in bus and metro fares to ~ $1.50 (3.20 reais) from ~ $1.40 (3 reais).

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The Arena Fonte Nova is seen as construction of the 2014 World Cup soccer stadium continues in Salvador, Brazil Gary Hershorn / Reuters

Anticipation in Brazil for next year’s World Cup is being subdued by concern over what to do with many of the 12 stadiums hosting matches after soccer’s biggest tournament ends.

Delays and cost overruns mean that by the time the first ball is kicked in just under a year, the bill for the new and refurbished venues probably will exceed the government’s latest estimate of 7 billion reais ($3.3 billion). Including urban construction, Brazil is spending 30 billion reais on World Cup projects.

In a country where soccer is the biggest draw, the outlay of mostly public money is being used to fulfill the host’s pledge to make it an event “for all of Brazil.” Constructing stadiums in cities including Brasilia, Cuiaba and Manaus, none of which has a team in the top two domestic leagues, may leave little-used legacy arenas.

“Several of these stadiums risk becoming white elephants,” Fabiola Dorr, a member of a team set up by Brazil’s public prosecutors to monitor World Cup spending, said in an interview. “It shows a total lack of planning. For sure, there will be last-minute contracts that further increase the cost.”

Brasilia’s 71,000-seat Estadio Nacional, at 1.5 billion reais the costliest arena, has attracted the most attention and may be the hardest to fill after the World Cup. The 57 games in Brasilia’s state championship so far this year have pulled fewer than 50,000 spectators in total, Valor Economico newspaper reported April 15. The venue will host tomorrow’s opening game of the Confederations Cup, an eight-team warm-up for next year’s global championship.

‘Ridiculous’

“I find it ridiculous,” Romario, a member of Parliament who was the top scorer on Brazil’s 1994 World Cup-winning squad, said in an e-mail. “Obviously they didn’t do a financial viability study for these stadiums for after the tournament.”

About 200 protesters gathered this morning outside the Brasilia stadium, demanding that the equivalent amount of money used to build the stadium be used to create housing for the poor. Some of the protestors used burning tires to block the road outside the arena.

Pedro Daniel, an economist at BDO Brazil, the country’s fifth-largest audit firm, said construction costs per seat are as high as for the most-expensive stadiums built for the 2006 World Cup in Germany.

“The difference is, in Germany, they were able to fill the stadiums once the games were over,” Daniel said.

Public spending

Former Sports Minister Orlando Silva had said in 2007 the stadium projects wouldn’t require any public money. The latest estimates show they’ll absorb 6.4 billion reais from public sources, or 91 percent of the total costs. Silva didn’t respond yesterday to an e-mail about the plan.

“The cup became a problem at the moment that stadiums were built with public instead of private money,” added Romario. “To make things worse, several urban transport projects which would have been left as legacy were canceled.”

Even local World Cup organizers aren’t sure how some of the stadiums will be economically viable after the tournament.

“It will all depend on the creativity, the imagination of the owners and the operators of these stadiums,” Brazilian soccer federation head Jose Maria Marin said when asked if some of the venues risked becoming a burden on public finances. “It will depend on the imagination of each leader.”

Other uses

Sports Minister Aldo Rebelo said June 10 they could be used for trade fairs, concerts and other non-sporting events.

Brazil’s Bovespa stock index has declined 18 percent this year, making it the fourth-worst performing index out of 94 in the world followed by Bloomberg. The real has risen 4.3 percent against the dollar this year.

Brazil was the sole bidder for the 2014 World Cup after Colombia backed out before the vote. Leaders of the world’s second-largest emerging market see the tournament and the Olympic Games in Rio de Janeiro two years later as an opportunity to transform cities by adding infrastructure funded by the events. According to soccer’s world governing body FIFA, the South African government said the 2010 World Cup contributed $5.8 billion to the local economy.

“There is no chance these stadiums will become white elephants,” Rebelo said on a conference call with journalists. “They will be much more than football fields. They will be multipurpose spaces that the cities have lacked before.”

South African experience

The statements echoed those made by government officials and organizers of the previous World Cup in South Africa, where the legacy of building new arenas is proving expensive. The nation spent more than 27 billion rand ($2.7 billion) on the event, with about $1.1 billion on building and upgrading stadiums, according to a report released in November.

The government also used the tournament to expand the highway system around Johannesburg and build public transport, including the Gautrain connecting the city with the main airport.

Cape Town stadium, at 4.5 billion rand the costliest facility, hosted eight games including a semifinal at the 2010 World Cup. The 68,000-seat arena cost 56 million rand to run during the last financial year and generated 14 million rand, city councilor Grant Pascoe said.

Local debate

Without an anchor tenant, the fate of the stadium, which hosted a sell-out concert by pop star Justin Bieber on May 8, has been the subject of local debate. Provincial leader Tony Ehrenreich said last year it should be converted into affordable housing, while others argued it should be razed.

Durban’s Moses Mabhida Stadium, which hosted the other World Cup semifinal, also is struggling. The 3.1 billion rand, 56,000-seat facility sits a goal kick away from the similarly sized Kings Park, which continues to draw the city’s biggest crowds as home to the Sharks rugby union team.

Moses Mabhida stadium, named for a former general secretary of South Africa’s Communist Party, is now a feature of the city skyline thanks to a 105-meter arch that has a monorail. It had an operating loss of 11 million rand for the year through April 2012, according to eThekwini Municipality spokesman Thabo Mofokeng. He said the council will take control this month once a contract with stadium operator Municipal Management Services ends.

Revenue needed

Ndavhe Ramakuela, director of the Peter Mokaba Stadium built to host games in Polokwane, said in 2010 the northern city needed between 10 million rand and 70 million rand to maintain the arena. By early 2012, it had sales of 4 million rand, according to a publication from the South African parliament.

“One problem was the idea of sports tourism as a long-term economic strategy in a carbon-constrained world where transport costs will soar,” Patrick Bond, senior professor at the University of KwaZulu-Natal’s School of Built Environment and Development Studies, said in an e-mail. “Another was the tendency of hawkish politicians to promote prestige projects, such as a second, world-class stadium in Durban across the street from the first one.”

Brazil hasn’t hosted the World Cup since 1950, when it lost the final game to Uruguay in front of a tournament-record crowd of 173,850 in Rio’s Maracana stadium. That competition was played in six cities, five of them in southern Brazil where the country’s most-popular teams including Rio’s Flamengo and Corinthians of Sao Paulo are based.

Zurich-based FIFA, which has ultimate control over the World Cup, requires the tournament host to provide a minimum of eight stadiums.

Although spreading 64 matches around 12 arenas risks creating unprofitable facilities in the future, Brazil’s Rebelo said local organizers had little option.

“Brazil is a huge country,” the sports minister told reporters May 16. “How could you have a World Cup in Brazil that excludes 60 percent of our territory, that excludes the Amazon region? It cannot be played only in the south, it has to be played in the cradle of our identity, our culture.”

Editors: Christopher Elser, Dan Baynes. To contact the reporters on this story: Tariq Panja in Rio de Janeiro at tpanja@bloomberg.net; Raymond Colitt in Brasilia at rcolitt@bloomberg.net; Christopher Spillane in Johannesburg at cspillane3@bloomberg.net. To contact the editor responsible for this story: Christopher Elser at celser@bloomberg.net. 

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Brazil: 'Zero tolerance' to hotel price hikes. / Associated Press

Brazil’s sports minister has pledged “zero tolerance” for hotels that charge abusive prices during the Confederations Cup and next year’s World Cup soccer tournaments.

Aldo Rebelo says that massive price hikes during the showcase events hurt Brazil’s image abroad and threaten to scare tourists away.

Speaking in a radio address on Thursday, Rebelo warned that hotels found to be raising their prices excessively will feel the “heavy hand” of the law, adding that consequences include possible hotel closures.

Hotels in Rio de Janeiro raised their prices so much ahead of a United Nations’ conference there last year that many delegations were forced to slash participant rosters. The government later forced the hotels to reimburse some of the excess charges.

The two-week long Confederations Cup begins on Saturday.

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Figures from the hotel comparison website Hotels.com suggested that searches for accommodation in Salvador have more than doubled in the first half of 2013, increasing by 126 per cent on the same period last year.

Searches for hotels in the northern city of Fortaleza have also risen sharply – by 108 per cent – while travellers looking for accommodation in the already popular destinations of São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro increased by 32 per cent and 36 per cent, respectively.

Hotel prices have also begun to climb, though not yet to the levels London experienced during the 2012 Olympics.

Average hotel rates in the country rose by eight per cent last year to ($237) £151 a night.

Prices in Sao Paulo also increased by eight per cent to an average of ($212) £135 a night, while in Rio they rose by 13 per cent to ($277) £177 per night.

Both cities are due to host World Cup matches, as are the cities of Salvador, Belo Horizonte, Brasilia, Fortaleza, Porto Alegre, Natal, Manaus, Recife, Cuiaba and Curitiba.

Another factor influencing the increase in price for hotels is the country’s booming economy. Brazil attracted 5.4 million visitors last year, a rise of 4.5 per cent on the previous year, according to the Brazilian Ministry of Tourism. Of those visitors, 155,548 were British, a four per cent rise on 2011.

While 57 new hotels are expected to open in Brazil this year, there are concerns that there may still be a shortage of rooms by the time the tournament begins.

“It’s great to see interest is building in Brazil ahead of next year’s World Cup,” said Alison Couper, from Hotels.com. “Looking beyond the World Cup to the 2016 Olympics, however, we could find that hotels in Rio are scarce. Although the city is working towards a target of 50,000 rooms, this is half as many as London had in 2012.

“While prices in Rio will almost certainly be higher than they were in London last year, travellers should still be able to get good value for money if they book early.”

• Read about Rio’s preparations for the 2014 World Cup

• Costa Verde, Brazil: green is the colour

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A worker walks inside the Arena da Amazonia, or Vivaldo Lima Stadium, as it is being rebuilt in Manaus. Stringer / Reuters

When the heart of the Amazon was among the richest places on Earth, local rubber barons flaunted their incredible wealth by building a spectacular opera house in Manaus with British steel, French glass and Italian marble.

At great expense, they shipped construction materials across the Atlantic and down the Rio Negro, then filled their new venue in the forest with the world’s leading musicians and conductors.

Even by the standards of the late 19th-century Belle Epoque, some considered this an extravagant folly. But those behind the scheme saw themselves as pushing back the boundaries of their civilisation.

More than a century later, a similar spectacle is being prepared, but this time the sultry capital of Amazonas will not be staging La Gioconda; it will be hosting the World Cup.

“History has turned full circle for Manaus,” says Eric Gamboa, of the local organising committee. “In our last golden age, we built an opera house with plantation money. This time we are building a stadium and our money comes from industry.”

Brazil is similarly hoping to prove how far it has come in 2014. A year from now, Manaus will be among 12 venues that look likely to provide some of the most stunning settings the beautiful game has ever known. But beyond the four-week tournament’s push into the outer reaches of the global football empire, the long-term legacy is far from assured due to corruption, poor management and weak attendances.

At first, it may seem strange that the sport has any ground left to conquer in Brazil. The five-time World Cup winner may not be the home of football, but it is arguably where the game has been played with the greatest style, passion and success.

The government is spending 31bn reais (£9bn) on the World Cup to accelerate social and economic development and to modernise the image of Brazil from the Rio-centric stereotypes of samba, carnival and beaches.

By building and refurbishing stadiums, it aims to demonstrate the maturity of a nation that has moved in the past 50 years from dictatorship to democracy, from hyperinflation to stable economic growth and from staggering inequality towards a somewhat more balanced society. No one pretends Brazil is there yet. Although it is vying with Britain to be the world’s fifth biggest economy, it is racked by chronic problems, many of which have become evident in the cities that will stage games in 2014.

Manaus is a case in point. While six of the host cities will participate in the Confederations Cup test event that starts this week in Manaus, the construction of the 550m-real Amazonia Arena is over time, over budget and likely to be underused once its four World Cup matches are over.

Building a venue in this remote island city of 2.3 million residents was always going to be a stretch. Located in one of the planet’s last great wildernesses, Manaus is doubly isolated: first by the confluence of the Rio Negro and Rio Solimões, then by a sea of green forest that stretches close to 600 miles on all sides. The electric storms that buffet Manaus sometimes overload the local grid and burn out computers, air conditioners and fridges. Rainy-season downpours can turn a building site into a swimming pool. The equatorial sunlight is so intense that it can bleach coloured plastic seating.

This makes everything more difficult and expensive, yet the planners opted for a complex steel-lattice design, which is ostensibly modelled on a traditional hand-woven basket but looks remarkably similar to the Bird’s Nest Olympic stadium in Beijing.

Unlike the Chinese capital, however, there is no nearby cheap and abundant source of steel that can be delivered on time to the required technical standards. Instead, all 6,700 tonnes are being smelted in Portugal, shipped across the Atlantic and down the Rio Negro. Only two of the three ships have arrived.

To lift these giant weights into place, the builders have also had to ship in heavy-duty cranes from China and the US. That can be difficult during even the dry season, when the waters of the Negro are too low for container ships, which means equipment has to be flown in at even greater expense.

Budget holdups have added to delays. The roof of the stadium – being built by a consortium led by Andrade Gutierrez and the architecture firm GMP – ought to have been put in place in March, but the structure is only 60% finished.

The local football club, Nacional, was supposed to be playing in the new stadium, but they are having to make do with a municipal ground with two open ends, missing floodlight bulbs and a hand-operated scoreboard with wonky numbers. Whether the team from Serie D – Brazil’s fourth division – are ready for a 43,000-capacity World Cup super-stadium is another concern. Matches in the Amazonas league attract an average crowd of 588 supporters.

Although they are the most popular team in an area greater than Britain, France, Germany and Italy combined, Nacional attract an average attendance similar to that of Burton Albion FC. Most football fans in Manaus support southern glamour clubs, such as Flamengo, Botafogo, Corinthians and Santos, which dominate the TV and radio airwaves.

A grand total of 3,215 spectators have turned up for Nacional’s biggest game of the season so far: a cup tie against top-flight Curitiba. There could be no faulting the atmosphere or the football drama. What the home side lacked in numbers they made up for in noise. Interspersed by chanting and cheering, the samba band maintained a steady rhythm for almost the full 90 minutes, pushing their team to a shock 4-1 win over their Serie-A opponents.

“Everyone in Brazil is critical of Manaus’s World Cup plans because they say the stadium will never be used. We might not fill it, but we won’t let it go to waste,” insisted Matheus Augusto, a devoted 19-year-old Nacional supporter, at half-time. “I think more fans will come when we have a new stadium.”

Manaus is far from alone in having a mega-stadium and a minor team. In Brasília, the 70,000-seat, $495m (£325m) Mané Garrincha stadium opened last week, but the capital’s teams rarely attracts more than a few hundred fans. The lower-division sides in Cuiabá will also struggle to fill even a fraction of the 47,000-capacity Arena Pantanal, another delayed construction project.

The authorities admit they face a challenge to meet running costs after 2014 through tourism, hosting exhibitions, conferences and the wildly popular annual paladão (scratch football) tournaments. “We’ll have to be creative to attract people. Only time will tell how often we can fill it. We will find a use for it, but the question is whether we can generate enough revenue to maintain it,” said Miguel Capobiango Neto, the head of the local organising committee.

But he argues that this is only part of the calculation. The World Cup will also raise the international profile of Manaus, accelerate infrastructure improvements (the city claims investment of more than 5bn reais on an airport upgrade, better connections to the national grid, improved transport and a 4G wireless network), and its new stadium will join the Opera House as skyline landmarks.

The government justifies the expense of stadiums in such far-flung places on the grounds of redistribution, in line with its aim to reduce inequality between north and south, black and white, poor and rich. While previous showcase sporting and cultural events were in more developed, southern coastal cities such as Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo, this time they claim to be spreading the benefits across the country.

Critics smell corruption – a longstanding problem in Brazil, particularly in the construction industry. Many media have complained that white elephants are stomping through the public finance. The football star turned politician Romário said the venues at Manaus, Brasília, Cuiabá and Natal were unlikely to survive beyond the World Cup. “Maybe they’ll stage concerts at those stadiums a few times a month, but that aside, they’re a joke,” he said.

For the outside world, such debates may seen irrelevant. After all, it will be Brazilian taxpayers who bear the brunt of the costs, while Fifa rakes in the income from what looks likely to be the most lucrative World Cup ever in terms of sponsorship and broadcasting rights.

The distances between venues and cost of domestic flights and hotels will make 2014 extremely expensive for visiting fans, but the stadiums will be ready in time for what is expected to be an incredible party. Manaus may be off the beaten track, but not many football venues can offer the post-match option of jungle tours, tribal dancing or swimming with pink boto dolphins.

This article originally appeared on guardian.co.uk

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The Joao Havelange stadium is pictured in Rio de Janeiro. / Reuters

Rio de Janeiro’s Joao Havelange stadium, scheduled to host the athletics at the 2016 Olympic Games, is to stay shut for 18 months while the roof is repaired, a committee of engineers said on Friday.

The stadium, completed six years ago, was closed in March because of structural damage to the roof in a major embarrassment for Brazilian sporting authorities.

The city government said the roof could present a risk for spectators if the wind reached over 63 kilometers per hour.

The committee, set up by the city, told reporters on Friday that it had found a number of problems with the roof including broken and twisted supports.

“It is a flaw which is related to the way the project was conceived,” said Sebastiao Andrade, a professor of engineering at Rio de Janeiro’s Catholic University (PUC).

The Joao Havelange stadium was built for the 2007 Panamerican Games and opened just one month before the event after being plagued by delays and cost over-runs.

Rio’s organization of the Panamerican Games, which was branded a success, was a key factor when it won in 2009 the right to stage the Olympics.

The announcement means the stadium will re-open at the end of next year, just 18 months before the start of the Olympics.

It also faces another closure to increase its capacity from 45,000 to 60,000 and bring it into line with International Olympic Committee (IOC) requirements.

The stadium, alternatively known as the Engenhao, has been used for soccer but has not proved very popular with fans due to its distance from the city center.

Writing by Brian Homewood in Berne; Editing by Ed Osmond. Copyright (2013) Thomson Reuters. Click for restrictions.

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…Argentine attorney René Alberto Langlois stated that for the sucre to one day become the common real currency in the region, the country members have to first harmonize their economic policies.

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